Montalcino, a 1200 year old community of prayer, and a drive in the country

Part of what we have seen, though not photographed, is the incredible countryside beauty of Tuscany. The scenes we generally associate with this region of Italy appear most often in a sub-section of the region called Crete Senese (CREY-ta Se-NAY-zee).  Today we drove through this portion of Tuscany on our way to Montalcino, the smallest of the medieval cities we have visited. Siena is the largest, followed by either Cortona or Montepulciano, and then Montalcino.

We started our journey, and stumbled across a huge field of sunflowers. We had seen some of these fields on the autostrada, but at 110 kilometers/hour, they are hard to photograph clearly! Our girls hopped out for a quick snapshot. All sunshine and light!

After taking that picture, Furman wanted to stop on the side of the road everywhere to take pictures of the pencil-shaped trees, vineyards, olive groves, and blue sky. Unfortunately, it was difficult to find a stopping place on the narrow highways that were not actually the driveways to homes and farms. But, the back seat crowd took over, and snapped some photos as we drove along, including one of the determined driver. His nickname—‘Mario’—befits his slightly out-of-practice manual transmission driving, enhanced by his dogged determination to embrace the curves, hills and blindspots. (We now know why bright yellow is such a popular color for cyclists’ jerseys, and it has nothing to do with the Tour de France. It is all about being seen!)

Montalcino is one, laid back town. The economy revolves around its delicious wine. ‘Brunello’ (brunette) wine is so called for its dark color. It is made of 100% Sangiovese grape—a big, sturdy grape that makes possible a long aging process to tease out subtle flavors and characteristics.

Our girls were so charmed by the 3-wheeled trucks. Katherine informed us she would like one for Christmas, preferably in a light pink or turquoise green (which we really did see). We have joked about how Dodge Trucks might be built ‘ram tough,’ while these Italian trucks are built ‘Chihuahua tough.’

After the long trip to Montalcino, and several hours and gelato scoops later, we decided it was time to turn back for Cortona. Fortunately, we made a wrong turn leaving town, and proceeded in the opposite direction. Thus, we found ourselves approaching the Abbey of Sant’ Animo. Our Bed and Breakfast host told us about this monastery, and since it was only a few more kilometers out of the way, we pressed on. It was so worth it!

 

Originally built in the 9^th century, this abbey predates the schism between the eastern and western Church in 1054. The current church dates to the 12^th century, and was built upon the site of the original church. The crucifix—life size—behind the altar dates to the mid 13^th century.  It was quiet, cool and dark in the nave, with very few visitors. 

There is a crypt under the altar. A fresco on the wall depicts the resurrection of Christ, assisted by angels, with visible wounds from the nails and spear quite evident.

Furman was permitted one ‘photo stop’ on the way back home since the landscape image he was looking for was easily captured from the grounds of the abbey.